El nuevo romanticismo de Claro Couture que sorprende por sus transparencias y exquisitos drapeados

"Sexy, dulce, sensual", son los tres adjetivos con los que Beatriz Claro describe la colección Primavera/Verano 2025 de Claro Couture que ha ideado junto a su padre, Fernando Claro, para esta 80º edición de Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Una entrega que nos distancia del registro habitual de esta firma de costura y desvela una faceta hiperfemenina, que evoca relajación y fantasía. Bautizada como la diosa griega de la primavera, Perséphone, esta serie de looks explora la dualidad de la mujer contemporánea mediante encajes bordados a mano meticulosamente sobre vaporosos tejidos, como el tul o el gazar.

Los luminosos tonos de rosa pastel, malva, blanco y verde transicionan a gamas ricas de chocolates intensos y negro, en referencia al paso de las estaciones y también como alusión al rapto de la hija de Zeus y Deméter por parte de Hades, dios griego del inframundo. En lugar de las siluetas estructuradas, adornadas con pedrería o paneles de lentejuelas, que solemos ver en sus colecciones, nos sorprenden con unas propuestas que abrazan cariñosamente al cuerpo casi como una segunda piel. Y es que, así lo asegura su diseñador, persiste su obsesión por el patronaje perfecto: para cada tejido, su patrón ideal. Ese lado romántico que no habíamos visto de Claro Couture es un guiño a su universo nupcial, una rama menos conocida de la firma, opacada en ocasiones por sus espectaculares looks de fiesta. No obstante, sus cuellos tipo canesú, guipures y exquisitos nos convencen inmediatamente de decir 'sí, quiero'.

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